KUALITAS KETUAAN WARNA HASIL PENCELUPAN PEWARNA EKSTRAK DAUN KAKAO PADA KAIN KATUN PRIMISIMA THE COLOR STRENGTH QUALITY OF DYES RESULT COCOA LEAVES EXTRACT ON PRIMISIMA COTTON FABRIC

Abstract

Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui: 1) kualitas ketuaan warna kain katun primisima menggunakan
pewarna ekstrak daun kakao (Theobroma Cacao L.) yang dipengaruhi frekuensi pengulangan pencelupan serta jenis
zat fiksasi tawas, kapur tohor, dan tunjung.; 2) pengaruh jenis zat fiksasi dan frekuensi pengulangan pencelupan
terhadap ketuaan warna dan arah warna hasil pencelupan. Jenis penelitian ini adalah eksperimen dengan desain
faktorial 3x3, dimana kode A, B, C sebagai zat fiksasi tawas, kapur tohor, tunjung, dan kode F1, F3, F5, frekuensi
pencelupan larutan zat warna 1, 3, dan 5 kali. Subyek penelitian menggunakan kain katun primisima ukuran 30 x
30cm dan ekstrak daun kakao diperoleh melalui proses teknik ekstraksi perebusan 2 Kg daun kakao menggunakan
air 4 L. Pengujian sampel dilakukan di Laboratorium Tekstil UII untuk mengetahui kualitas ketuaan warna. Teknik
analisis data menggunakan statistik deskriptif dan inferensial parametrik menggunakan ANOVA. Hasil penelitian
menunjukan bahwa: 1) kualitas ketuaan warna kain katun primisima menghasilkan warna gelap jika jumlah frekuensi
pengulangan pencelupan meningkat.; (2) zat fiksasi tawas, kapur tohor, tunjung, serta frekuensi pencelupan 1, 3, 5
kali berpengaruh pada ketuaan warna hasil pencelupan yakni ketuaan warna paling tua diperoleh dari fiksasi tunjung,
warna sedang dari fiksasi kapur tohor, dan warna paling cerah dari fiksasi tawas dengan arah warna, yaitu warna
deep peach pada tawas, warna dessert sand pada kapur tohor, warna dark vanilla pada tunjung.
Kata Kunci: Ekstrak Daun Kakao, Kain Katun Primisima, Pewarna Alam, Kain

This research aims to knows: (1) the colour strength of dyeing result primisima cotton fabric with cocoa
(Theobroma Cacao L.) leaves extract as natural dye which was affected by repeated dyeing requently and the
fixatives was a alum, a hydrated lime, and a ferrous sulfate.; (2) the affects of fixatives type and repeated dyeing
frequently to dyeing color result and color strength quality primisima cotton fabric with the dyes extracted from
cocoa leaves. This experimental research was design 3x3 factorial which fixatives A, B, C such as alum, hydrated
lime, and ferrous sulfate and code F1, F3, F5 show repeated dyeing requently 1, 3, and 5 times in to cocoa leaves
extract. The subject of this research is primisima cotton fabric 30 cm x 30 cm wides. The dye of cocoa leaves extract
was obtained through extraction method by boiling 2Kg cocoa leaves with 4L water. The data is obtained by color
dyes result quality test on sampel that the color strength of each fixatives and the colorfastness test in UII Textile
Laboratory. The data was analysed by statistic descriptive and parametric inferensial (ANOVA). The results showed
that: (1) the color strength quality dyeing will darker when the repeated dyeing have increasingly; (2) The fixatives
alum, hydrated lime, ferrous sulfate and repeated dyeing requently 1,3, 5 times affect strength color result which the
maximum colour intensity fixatives a ferrous sulfate, middle colour hydrated lime, and intesity brighter colour
fixatives an alum which fixatives alum produces a deep peach, hydrated lime produces a dessert sand, and ferrous
sulfate produces dark vanilla.
Keyword: Cocoa Leaves Extract, Primisima Cotton Fabric, Natural Dye, Fabric